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Onions

This Allotment Pro editorial draft summarises the cited RHS guide. Check the source and adjust cultivation decisions for local conditions.
RHS source guide
Onions crop illustration

Month by month

Sow

  1. Sow:

    from mid-winter to mid-spring; sow overwintering types in late summer or early autumn

Plant

  1. Plant sets:

    early to mid-spring, or autumn for suitable overwintering types

Harvest

  1. Harvest:

    June and July for autumn-planted crops; July to October for spring-planted or seed-raised crops

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1 - Getting Started

Onions (Allium cepa) are dependable, space-efficient vegetables grown for their swollen bulbs. They suit beds, raised plots and large containers, and a properly ripened crop can be stored for months. Most gardeners begin with sets—small dormant bulbs—which establish quickly and need little attention. Growing from seed takes longer but costs less and offers a wider choice.

Give onions full sun, free-draining soil and an open position. Their roots are limited, so they compete poorly with weeds and respond to soil improved before planting. Spring sets are the simplest route to a crop from July to September. Autumn-planted overwintering onions mature earlier, usually in June or July, but are unsuitable for ground that stays wet through winter.

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2 - Choosing What To Grow

Varieties differ in skin colour, flavour, maturity, resistance to premature flowering and storage life. Heat-treated spring sets are less likely to bolt than untreated sets. Seed is the better choice when a particular variety is unavailable as sets, but buy it fresh because onion seed loses viability after a year or two.

Recommended varieties

Onion Rumba illustration

Onion ‘Rumba’ AGM

A productive onion with medium-sized yellow-skinned bulbs, good growth and dependable storage. ## 3 - Preparing The Ground Choose a warm sunny site with soil that drains freely. Remove perennial and annual weeds thoroughly. Incorporate about one bucketful of homemade garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre; do not use fresh manure. Organic matter improves the structure and moisture-holding capacity that shallow onion roots need. In a no-dig bed, apply it as a surface mulch before sowing or planting through it. Avoid ground where onions, garlic, leeks or shallots have grown recently, especially if white rot or other persistent allium problems have occurred. On wet heavy soil, favour spring planting, a raised bed or a large container rather than overwintering sets. ## 4 - Sowing Sow onions from mid-winter to mid-spring so plants are growing strongly by late spring. Lengthening days trigger bulb formation, and plants carrying more healthy leaves at that point generally make larger bulbs.

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3 - Preparing The Ground

Choose a warm sunny site with soil that drains freely. Remove perennial and annual weeds thoroughly. Incorporate about one bucketful of homemade garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre; do not use fresh manure. Organic matter improves the structure and moisture-holding capacity that shallow onion roots need. In a no-dig bed, apply it as a surface mulch before sowing or planting through it.

Avoid ground where onions, garlic, leeks or shallots have grown recently, especially if white rot or other persistent allium problems have occurred. On wet heavy soil, favour spring planting, a raised bed or a large container rather than overwintering sets.

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4 - Sowing

Sow onions from mid-winter to mid-spring so plants are growing strongly by late spring. Lengthening days trigger bulb formation, and plants carrying more healthy leaves at that point generally make larger bulbs.

Sowing indoors

Fill modular trays with peat-free seed compost and sow about 1.3cm deep. Sow one seed per module for larger individual bulbs, or three or four together for a cluster of smaller onions. Keep the tray in a heated propagator or on a warm sunny windowsill. Germination should take about two weeks. Then move seedlings into bright light and keep the compost slightly moist.

Harden plants off before transplanting. Set single seedlings 5–10cm apart in rows 25–30cm apart, widening the plant spacing to 15cm for especially large bulbs. Do not divide multi-sown modules; plant each intact clump so the bulbs push apart as they swell.

Sowing outdoors

Sow from early to mid-spring once the soil warms. Make drills 1.3cm deep, with rows 20–30cm apart. Thin seedlings first to 5cm and later to 10cm, using the removed young onions in the kitchen. Closer spacing gives more but smaller bulbs.

Overwintering varieties may be sown indoors in late summer or early autumn. Harden them off carefully before planting and avoid exposed, waterlogged ground.

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5 - Planting Sets

Plant spring sets in early to mid-spring. Place each about 2cm deep, with only the pointed tip visible, spacing them 5–15cm apart in rows 20–30cm apart. Wider spacing produces larger bulbs. Firm gently and water well. Birds often pull loose sets from the soil, so protect them with biodegradable fleece or suitable netting until roots anchor them.

Plant designated overwintering sets in autumn for a June or July crop. In cold wet soil, start spring sets one per module in peat-free multi-purpose compost in a cool bright greenhouse, then transplant when conditions improve. This avoids losses without keeping them excessively warm.

For containers, choose one at least 45cm wide and deep, position it in full sun and fill with peat-free soil-based compost. Plant at normal depth and spacing, ensuring drainage holes stay open.

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6 - Plant Care

Water during prolonged dry spells, particularly while roots and foliage are establishing. Once bulbs have swollen in mid-summer, stop watering spring-planted crops so they ripen and store well. Direct water onto the soil rather than foliage to reduce fungal disease.

Soil enriched before planting normally supplies enough nutrients. On poor soil, autumn-planted onions may benefit from an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser in late winter; this supports growth and may reduce premature flowering. Avoid late high-nitrogen feeding, which encourages soft growth and delays ripening.

Weed frequently by hand near bulbs because onion leaves cast little shade. Hoe carefully between rows without cutting foliage or bulbs. Remove any flower stem as soon as it appears. A bolted bulb will not swell or store properly, although it can still be used promptly.

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7 - Harvesting And Storing

Harvest onions at any useful size for immediate eating. Autumn sets normally mature in June and July; spring sets and seed-raised crops mature from July to October. Yellowing, naturally toppling foliage signals ripening. Do not deliberately bend leaves or break roots. Lift before foliage dies away completely, using a fork carefully so bulbs are not bruised. Use damaged onions first.

Dry sound bulbs for about two weeks. In dry weather, spread them on wire racks in full sun so air circulates underneath; in damp weather, use a greenhouse or well-ventilated shed. Once skins and necks are papery, store in net bags, single layers in slatted trays, or plaits.

Keep stored onions somewhere light, cool, dry and well ventilated. Darkness encourages sprouting. Inspect regularly and remove any soft bulb. Autumn-planted onions generally last until early winter, while well-ripened spring or seed crops may keep into the following spring.

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8 - Problem Solving

Cold spring weather can trigger bolting, birds pull newly planted sets loose, and damp soil or poor drying encourages rots. Use heat-treated sets, plant into suitable conditions, protect new rows and rotate alliums. Never store bruised, thick-necked or incompletely dried bulbs with the main crop.

Common problems

Bolting in vegetables

Premature flower stems divert energy from the bulb. Reduce cold shocks, choose resistant or heat-treated sets and remove stems promptly.

Problem source

Allium leaf miner

Larvae tunnel through leaves, stems and bulbs, distorting plants and opening tissue to decay. Fine insect-proof mesh can exclude adult flies during their active periods.

Problem source

Leek rust

Bright orange raised pustules mark infected leaves. Improve spacing, avoid excess nitrogen and rotate allium crops.

Problem source

Onion downy mildew

Pale patches and grey-purple growth weaken foliage in damp weather and reduce bulb development. Encourage airflow and avoid wetting leaves.

Problem source

Onion neck rot

This fungal disease becomes evident in storage. Ripen and dry bulbs thoroughly, reject thick or damaged necks and maintain ventilation.

Problem source

Onion white rot

Yellowing foliage and white fungal growth accompany root and bulb decay. The fungus persists in soil, so remove affected plants and avoid alliums on contaminated ground.

Problem source

Leek moth

Caterpillars mine leaves and can enter bulbs. Protect crops with fine mesh and remove badly damaged material.

Problem source

Onion fly

Maggots damage roots and bulbs and may kill seedlings. Rotate crops, remove affected plants and protect susceptible young rows.

Problem source

Slugs and snails

These animals chew young seedlings and soft foliage. Reduce shelters, inspect after dark and protect establishing plants. Source: Royal Horticultural Society. Reviewed for crop identity and base image, six exact cultivar sources, nine linked common problems, sowing seasons and 1.3cm depth, multi-sowing, two-week germination, seedling and set spacings, 2cm set depth, 45cm containers, watering cutoff, harvest windows, two-week drying and storage guidance.

Problem source