Sow
- FebruaryIndoors · Module Sow
Sow one seed per module or small pot at 13–16°C (55–61°F).
- March–AprilOutdoors · Direct Sow
Sow thinly in prepared ground.
This Allotment Pro editorial draft summarises the cited RHS guide. Check the source and adjust timings for local conditions.RHS source guide

Sow one seed per module or small pot at 13–16°C (55–61°F).
Sow thinly in prepared ground.
Plant crowns promptly on arrival; March is ideal, while suppliers may deliver in March or April.
Move hardened-off indoor-sown seedlings into their prepared bed in early June.
From the third year, begin in mid-April: cut for six weeks that year and for eight weeks in later years.
A dedicated asparagus bed takes patience at first but can then give dependable spring crops for many years. Crowns are the usual starting material, while seed offers a lower-cost but slower route.
Allow young plants to build strength before harvesting. Once the cutting period ends, leave the shoots to develop into tall, fern-like summer growth, then remove the yellowed stems in autumn so fresh spears can emerge the following spring.
Crowns establish more readily and reach harvest sooner than seed-grown plants. Variety choice can be based on flavour, spear colour and thickness, crop size and whether cropping is early or late.
Dormant one-year-old crowns are the easiest and fastest option. Seed is cheaper and may produce many plants, but seedlings demand more care and an extra year before the first harvest.
Male plants give more and better spears, so many modern F1 cultivars are all-male. Older non-hybrid cultivars include both sexes; female plants are less productive and their seedlings can compete with the established bed.
Order dormant bare-root crowns early for the broadest choice and plant them when delivered in March or April. They are commonly sold online in packs, while some garden centres also stock crowns; seed is available from garden centres and online retailers.

An all-male cultivar cropping in the middle to later part of the season, with flavoursome, thick and straight spears.

A proven heritage cultivar noted for an especially large crop of green spears tipped with deep purple.

A prolific early male cultivar producing medium-thick, mid-green spears whose purple tips stay closed.

A notably vigorous all-male cultivar that produces generous harvests.

A comparatively late cultivar with notably well-flavoured green spears; plants may be male or female.
Choose a warm, sheltered position with free drainage and reserve it for asparagus. Prepare fresh ground rather than replanting an old asparagus bed, which helps avoid accumulated soil-borne problems.
Full sun is preferred, although dappled shade is tolerated. Most soils are suitable if they drain freely; on heavy ground, use a raised bed. Do not interplant the permanent bed with other crops.
Clear weeds before planting. Either work compost or well-rotted manure into the ground, or use a no-dig approach by spreading organic mulch and planting through it.
Seed is slower than planting crowns but is economical and can be started in warmth or sown directly outside.
In February, sow one seed into each module or small pot of moist peat-free seed compost. Keep seedlings warm, bright and watered, then harden them after the last frost and prepare to transplant in early June.
Direct-sow thinly in March or April. Protect seedlings from slugs and snails, let them establish for a year, then move them to final positions the following March.
Plant crowns promptly, preferably in March. Spread their fragile roots carefully over a low soil mound, leave the growth tips visible, water thoroughly and finish with organic mulch.
Set crowns or one-year-old seed-raised plants in staggered rows. A trench may be more practical than individual holes for a full bed. Position each crown with shoots uppermost, spread the roots evenly and gently return the soil around them.
Where ground space is unavailable, plant one crown in a large container of good peat-free compost. Water regularly, support the summer growth, apply balanced liquid feed during active growth and top-dress each spring. Container plants are shorter-lived and produce smaller crops for only a few years.
Established asparagus mainly needs weed control, an annual mulch, support for its tall summer stems and removal of yellow foliage at the end of the season.
Water new plants regularly throughout their first summer. Established plants cope with drought and generally need irrigation only during prolonged dry weather.
Apply a generous organic mulch in late winter each year to retain moisture and limit weeds. A biodegradable weed-suppressing membrane may be used from autumn to late winter while plants are dormant. Regularly mulched plants usually need no extra feed; if growth is weak, apply a general fertiliser before spring spears appear.
Keep the bed weed-free, but work by hand because hoeing or removing established weeds can injure the shallow asparagus roots. Remove seedlings arising from orange-red berries on female plants so they do not compete with the crop.
Protect the tall, feathery summer stems from wind damage by placing stakes and twine along both sides of each row. Netting fixed to the stakes can add further support.
In late winter or early spring, gaps can be filled by dividing a mature crown into strong outer sections, each carrying several growth points. Remove old woody pieces and replant divisions immediately with their buds visible at the surface.
Do not cut newly planted asparagus during its first two years, or its first three years when seed-grown. Start a short harvest in year three, then use the full cutting period in following seasons.
From mid-April in the third year, harvest for six weeks; in later years, continue for eight weeks. Cut each suitable spear just below soil level. During warm weather, pick frequently because stems soon become woody, and regular cutting promotes further shoots.
Asparagus is usually dependable, but young spears may be damaged by frost, slugs or snails, while asparagus beetles feed on summer growth. Waterlogged ground can also lead to root decay, making good drainage important.
The guide highlights frost injury, asparagus beetle and slugs and snails, with dedicated RHS problem pages for identification and control advice.
Late frost can injure tender new asparagus shoots in spring.
Problem sourceAdults and larvae eat asparagus stems and foliage in summer, and severe leaf loss can weaken the plants.
Problem sourceSlugs and snails may damage asparagus, particularly young seedlings and emerging growth.
Problem source