Shallots

Shallots are small, sweet members of the onion family, usually classified as Allium cepa Aggregatum Group. Each planted immature bulb, or set, develops into a cluster of new bulbs for harvest in summer. Shallots may also be raised from seed, although that route is slower and needs more early attention.

Sets are the simplest and quickest choice and generally perform better in colder regions. Seed is cheaper, and seed-raised plants are less likely to bolt, but each seed produces only one bulb rather than the cluster formed from a set. Both methods need a warm, sunny site and freely drained soil.

The crop is valued for mild, sweet flavour and long storage. Bulbs vary from rounded through teardrop shapes to long banana or torpedo forms, with skins ranging from golden and reddish brown to copper and rose. Choosing the right variety lets you prioritise shape, yield, storage, disease resistance or reduced bolting.

Choose heat-treated sets where possible to reduce premature flowering. Spring-planted varieties suit most gardens; only use cultivars specifically sold for autumn or winter planting in those seasons. RHS Award of Garden Merit selections have demonstrated reliable garden performance.

Recommended varieties

Shallot ‘Camelot’

Teardrop-shaped bulbs with reddish skin, white flesh and good storage quality.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Shallot ‘Longor’ AGM

An elongated banana shallot that can produce up to eight new bulbs from each set and stores well.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Shallot ‘Matador’ AGM

Produces a high yield of rounded reddish-brown bulbs with good storage quality.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Shallot ‘Zebrune’ AGM

A heritage banana or torpedo-shaped shallot with useful resistance to bolting.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Shallot ‘Meloine’ AGM

Rounded mild-flavoured shallots with white flesh, forming clusters of up to eight and showing good resistance to downy mildew. ## 3 - Preparing The Ground And Containers Choose the sunniest available position and fertile, free-draining soil. Shallots have a limited root system, so fork in about one bucketful of well-rotted manure or garden compost per square metre before planting. This improves structure, nutrient supply and moisture retention. Do not use fresh manure. In a no-dig bed, apply mature organic matter as a surface mulch ahead of sowing or planting. Avoid damp, waterlogged ground because bulbs are then prone to rotting and fungal disease. Raised beds or containers are better alternatives where drainage cannot be improved. Growing bags are generally unsuitable. For pots, use peat-free soil-based compost in a container at least 30cm wide and 30cm deep, with clear drainage holes. Containers need more frequent watering than open ground, but the compost must never remain saturated. ## 4 - Sowing And Planting Seed may be sown indoors in late winter or outside in spring. The aim is to establish vigorous plants before late spring, because lengthening days trigger bulb formation. Indoor sowing provides a useful head start in cold districts. Harden plants off before moving them outside. Do not split multi-seeded modules into individual plants. Plant each module as an intact clump so it develops into a cluster of bulbs. Space young plants 15–20cm apart in rows 25–30cm apart, firm gently and water well. Plant sets mainly from early to mid-spring. Cold-tolerant varieties may be planted in autumn or winter, but avoid this on heavy waterlogged soil because dormant bulbs can rot. Set each bulb upright with its tip just visible at the soil surface. Leave 15–20cm between sets and 25–30cm between rows, firm the soil and water them in. Birds often pull newly planted sets from loose ground. Check the row regularly, replant displaced bulbs and use reused fleece or netting until roots anchor them. Use the same planting depth and spacing in a container while keeping the 30cm minimum dimensions. ## 5 - Plant Care Once sets and young plants are rooted, open-ground shallots usually need water only during prolonged dry weather in early summer. Container crops require regular checks. Stop routine watering once the bulbs have swollen in midsummer; continued watering of spring-planted crops after this point may reduce storage life. Direct water to the soil and avoid wet foliage, which encourages fungal disease. The organic matter added before planting should provide adequate nutrition. On poor soil, autumn-planted crops may receive an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser in late winter. Container plants benefit from occasional organic general liquid feed from spring to midsummer. Weed throughout growth because narrow shallot leaves cast little shade. Competing weeds reduce bulb size by taking light, moisture and nutrients. Hoe shallowly between rows and hand weed near each cluster so bulbs and roots are not cut. Remove flower stalks as soon as bolting is noticed. The affected bulbs will not store as reliably, so mark them for early kitchen use. Do not bend foliage down to force ripening; wait for it to yellow and fall naturally. ## 6 - Harvesting And Drying Shallots normally ripen from mid- to late summer, depending on cultivar, planting date and weather. Harvest when most leaves have yellowed and flopped. Use a hand fork to loosen the soil beneath each cluster and lift gently without bruising the bulbs, as damaged tissue is vulnerable to storage rot. Separate the cluster carefully into individual shallots. Use damaged or bolted bulbs first. Spread sound bulbs in a single layer on wire racks or slatted trays so air circulates beneath them. Dry outdoors in full sun for about two weeks when weather permits, or use a greenhouse or well-ventilated shed during wet conditions. Drying is complete when skins and necks are papery and all foliage has lost its moisture. Avoid piling fresh bulbs together, which traps dampness and encourages decay. ## 7 - Storing Properly ripened shallots generally keep for at least six to eight months. Store only clean, perfect bulbs with dry necks and intact skins. Trim remaining dry foliage and place the crop in net bags, shallow trays or a single airy layer. Choose a light, cool, dry and well-ventilated position. Darkness encourages premature sprouting, while warmth and humidity encourage roots and rot. Inspect stored bulbs periodically and remove any that soften, sprout or develop mould before the problem reaches neighbouring shallots. Keep the healthiest, true-to-type bulbs separate if they will be replanted, but do not retain material from crops affected by persistent soil-borne disease. Use stored culinary bulbs progressively through autumn and winter. ## 8 - Problem Solving Bolting is triggered especially by low spring temperatures. Heat-treated sets and seed-raised plants are less prone, and flower stalks should be removed promptly. Leek rust creates orange pustules, while onion downy mildew damages foliage and bulbs. Good spacing, airflow and avoiding wet leaves reduce disease pressure. Onion neck rot often develops during storage, so harvest gently, dry completely and store only undamaged bulbs. Onion white rot causes yellowing and root or bulb decay and persists in contaminated soil; rotate alliums and avoid moving affected soil. Leek moth larvae and onion fly maggots can damage foliage, roots and bulbs. Fine mesh protection and regular inspection are useful where these pests occur. Slugs and snails may graze young plants, and birds commonly pull unrooted sets from the ground. Protect vulnerable rows, replant displaced bulbs and keep the surrounding area tidy without eliminating useful wildlife habitat. - [Bolting in vegetables](https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/bolting) - [Leek rust](https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/leek-rust) - [Onion downy mildew](https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/onion-downy-mildew) - [Onion neck rot](https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/onion-neck-rot) - [Onion white rot](https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/onion-white-rot) - [Leek moth](https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/leek-moth) - [Onion fly](https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/onion-fly) - [Slugs and snails](https://www.rhs.org.uk/biodiversity/slugs-and-snails) --- Source: [Royal Horticultural Society](https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/shallots/grow-your-own). Reviewed against the live RHS shallot guide for its set and seed methods, bucketful soil preparation, spring and cold-tolerant autumn or winter planting, 15–20cm plant and 25–30cm row spacings, 30cm containers, watering and feeding, mid- to late-summer harvest, two-week drying, six-to-eight-month storage, five exact recommended profiles and eight linked common problems.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Choose the sunniest available position and fertile, free-draining soil. Shallots have a limited root system, so fork in about one bucketful of well-rotted manure or garden compost per square metre before planting. This improves structure, nutrient supply and moisture retention. Do not use fresh manure.

In a no-dig bed, apply mature organic matter as a surface mulch ahead of sowing or planting. Avoid damp, waterlogged ground because bulbs are then prone to rotting and fungal disease. Raised beds or containers are better alternatives where drainage cannot be improved. Growing bags are generally unsuitable.

For pots, use peat-free soil-based compost in a container at least 30cm wide and 30cm deep, with clear drainage holes. Containers need more frequent watering than open ground, but the compost must never remain saturated.

Seed may be sown indoors in late winter or outside in spring. The aim is to establish vigorous plants before late spring, because lengthening days trigger bulb formation. Indoor sowing provides a useful head start in cold districts. Harden plants off before moving them outside.

Do not split multi-seeded modules into individual plants. Plant each module as an intact clump so it develops into a cluster of bulbs. Space young plants 15–20cm apart in rows 25–30cm apart, firm gently and water well.

Plant sets mainly from early to mid-spring. Cold-tolerant varieties may be planted in autumn or winter, but avoid this on heavy waterlogged soil because dormant bulbs can rot. Set each bulb upright with its tip just visible at the soil surface. Leave 15–20cm between sets and 25–30cm between rows, firm the soil and water them in.

Birds often pull newly planted sets from loose ground. Check the row regularly, replant displaced bulbs and use reused fleece or netting until roots anchor them. Use the same planting depth and spacing in a container while keeping the 30cm minimum dimensions.

Once sets and young plants are rooted, open-ground shallots usually need water only during prolonged dry weather in early summer. Container crops require regular checks. Stop routine watering once the bulbs have swollen in midsummer; continued watering of spring-planted crops after this point may reduce storage life. Direct water to the soil and avoid wet foliage, which encourages fungal disease.

The organic matter added before planting should provide adequate nutrition. On poor soil, autumn-planted crops may receive an organic nitrogen-rich fertiliser in late winter. Container plants benefit from occasional organic general liquid feed from spring to midsummer.

Weed throughout growth because narrow shallot leaves cast little shade. Competing weeds reduce bulb size by taking light, moisture and nutrients. Hoe shallowly between rows and hand weed near each cluster so bulbs and roots are not cut.

Remove flower stalks as soon as bolting is noticed. The affected bulbs will not store as reliably, so mark them for early kitchen use. Do not bend foliage down to force ripening; wait for it to yellow and fall naturally.

Shallots normally ripen from mid- to late summer, depending on cultivar, planting date and weather. Harvest when most leaves have yellowed and flopped. Use a hand fork to loosen the soil beneath each cluster and lift gently without bruising the bulbs, as damaged tissue is vulnerable to storage rot.

Separate the cluster carefully into individual shallots. Use damaged or bolted bulbs first. Spread sound bulbs in a single layer on wire racks or slatted trays so air circulates beneath them. Dry outdoors in full sun for about two weeks when weather permits, or use a greenhouse or well-ventilated shed during wet conditions.

Drying is complete when skins and necks are papery and all foliage has lost its moisture. Avoid piling fresh bulbs together, which traps dampness and encourages decay.

Properly ripened shallots generally keep for at least six to eight months. Store only clean, perfect bulbs with dry necks and intact skins. Trim remaining dry foliage and place the crop in net bags, shallow trays or a single airy layer.

Choose a light, cool, dry and well-ventilated position. Darkness encourages premature sprouting, while warmth and humidity encourage roots and rot. Inspect stored bulbs periodically and remove any that soften, sprout or develop mould before the problem reaches neighbouring shallots.

Keep the healthiest, true-to-type bulbs separate if they will be replanted, but do not retain material from crops affected by persistent soil-borne disease. Use stored culinary bulbs progressively through autumn and winter.

Bolting is triggered especially by low spring temperatures. Heat-treated sets and seed-raised plants are less prone, and flower stalks should be removed promptly. Leek rust creates orange pustules, while onion downy mildew damages foliage and bulbs. Good spacing, airflow and avoiding wet leaves reduce disease pressure.

Onion neck rot often develops during storage, so harvest gently, dry completely and store only undamaged bulbs. Onion white rot causes yellowing and root or bulb decay and persists in contaminated soil; rotate alliums and avoid moving affected soil. Leek moth larvae and onion fly maggots can damage foliage, roots and bulbs. Fine mesh protection and regular inspection are useful where these pests occur.

Slugs and snails may graze young plants, and birds commonly pull unrooted sets from the ground. Protect vulnerable rows, replant displaced bulbs and keep the surrounding area tidy without eliminating useful wildlife habitat.

Source: Royal Horticultural Society. Reviewed against the live RHS shallot guide for its set and seed methods, bucketful soil preparation, spring and cold-tolerant autumn or winter planting, 15–20cm plant and 25–30cm row spacings, 30cm containers, watering and feeding, mid- to late-summer harvest, two-week drying, six-to-eight-month storage, five exact recommended profiles and eight linked common problems.