Parsnips

Parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) are slow-growing root vegetables sown directly outdoors in spring and harvested from autumn through winter. Their sweet earthy roots suit roasting and stews, and can remain safely in the ground until needed. Frost intensifies their sweetness, making them a traditional winter and Christmas crop.

Success depends on fresh seed, warm enough soil and a deep stone-free seedbed. Old parsnip seed germinates poorly, so buy a new packet each spring. Plants need little care once established, but young rows must be kept weed-free and watered during long dry spells.

Most cultivars form long tapering cream or white roots. Shorter, more bulbous types suit shallow, stony or heavy soils. Canker resistance is valuable, particularly where roots may be damaged or soil conditions are difficult.

Recommended varieties

Parsnip ‘Albion’ AGM

An evenly tapered white root about 30cm long, with smooth skin that discolours slowly. It has good canker resistance.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Parsnip ‘Gladiator’ AGM

Produces good harvests of well-flavoured, long slender roots with smooth skins and resistance to canker.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Parsnip ‘Pearl’ AGM

Forms very uniform long slender roots with smooth white skin and keeps well in the ground through winter.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Parsnip ‘Picador’ AGM

A vigorous F1 hybrid with long smooth roots. It needs a long growing season and has good canker resistance.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Parsnip ‘Viper’ AGM

An F1 hybrid producing long uniform roots that can reach an exceptional size when well grown, making it suitable for exhibiting. ## 3 - Preparing The Ground Choose an open sunny site with deep light soil that drains readily. Remove as many stones as possible and loosen compacted or heavy ground so roots can extend without forking. Do not add manure or compost immediately before sowing, as rich pockets of fresh organic matter can make roots branch. Soil improved the previous year is ideal. Avoid recently used carrot or parsnip ground because carrot fly may remain nearby. If carrots are also being grown, separate the two crops rather than concentrating both hosts together. In a no-dig plot, sow into a mature well-settled surface mulch. On shallow or heavy soil, select a shorter cultivar or consider a deep container filled with suitable free-draining growing medium. Do not transplant parsnips: disturbance of the developing taproot causes misshapen roots. ## 4 - Sowing Wait until mid-spring when soil is about 12°C. February is usually too cold for dependable germination except in very mild locations. March, April and early-May sowings generally establish better. Covering the seedbed with cloches for about two weeks beforehand helps warm and dry it. Make drills 1cm deep and water the base if soil is dry. Scatter fresh seed thinly, or sow three seeds at stations 15cm apart. Parsnip germination is unreliable, so sow more than the final number required. Cover lightly and water again if rain is not expected. Space rows 30cm apart. Seedlings may take 14–30 days to appear. Keep the drill moist and weed carefully while waiting so emerging parsnips are not confused with weed seedlings. Cloches or biodegradable fleece over young rows for a few weeks can improve establishment. Once seedlings are identifiable, thin to one strong plant every 15cm. Remove the weaker plants without disturbing those retained. A fast radish row can be sown between parsnips and harvested before the slow roots need the room. ## 5 - Plant Care Water young plants during dry spells until established. Mature parsnips tolerate some drought, but erratic moisture can split roots, so keep soil reasonably even during prolonged dry weather. A thick organic mulch applied after the soil is warm and damp helps retain moisture and suppress weeds without disturbing roots. Weed regularly while plants are small. Hand-weeding close to the row is safer than hoeing, which may damage the root crown and create an entry point for canker. Avoid crushing or handling foliage unnecessarily because its scent may attract carrot fly. Once leaves form a dense canopy, they suppress many later weeds. Protect crops from carrot fly from the start with fine insect-proof mesh. Secure the edges carefully and leave enough height for the foliage. Rotation alone is unreliable against a mobile adult fly, although separating susceptible crops remains useful. Parsnip foliage contains sap that can make skin sensitive to sunlight. Wear gloves and cover arms when handling plants, particularly in bright weather, then wash exposed skin. ## 6 - Harvesting Roots can be lifted when foliage begins to die down in late summer or autumn, but waiting until after the first heavy frost improves sweetness and flavour. Mark rows with canes before leaves disappear so roots remain easy to locate in winter. Use a garden fork well to one side of the crown and ease the long root out intact. Avoid levering directly against it. Damaged roots should be used promptly rather than stored. Parsnips are very hardy and can remain in the ground through winter for harvesting as required. Frozen soil can make lifting difficult, so take a reserve batch in November or cover part of the row with straw for insulation. Leaving sound roots in soil avoids the need for indoor storage and maintains quality. ## 7 - Using And Storing Brush soil from freshly lifted roots and wash only before cooking. Trim foliage without cutting deeply into the crown. Roots lifted for a short reserve can be held somewhere cool, but the ground is normally the best store. Roast, mash or add parsnips to soups and winter stews. Their central core may become firmer in very large roots, while small and medium specimens often cook most evenly. Frost-converted sugars give late harvests their characteristic sweetness. ## 8 - Problem Solving Poor germination is usually caused by old seed or cold soil. Buy fresh seed annually, delay sowing until about 12°C and keep drills moist. Forked roots result from stones, compaction, recent manure or transplanting. Splitting follows uneven water supply. Orange-brown canker develops most readily on damaged roots, so choose resistant cultivars and avoid injury.

Cultivar sourceAllotment Pro variety guide

Choose an open sunny site with deep light soil that drains readily. Remove as many stones as possible and loosen compacted or heavy ground so roots can extend without forking. Do not add manure or compost immediately before sowing, as rich pockets of fresh organic matter can make roots branch. Soil improved the previous year is ideal.

Avoid recently used carrot or parsnip ground because carrot fly may remain nearby. If carrots are also being grown, separate the two crops rather than concentrating both hosts together. In a no-dig plot, sow into a mature well-settled surface mulch.

On shallow or heavy soil, select a shorter cultivar or consider a deep container filled with suitable free-draining growing medium. Do not transplant parsnips: disturbance of the developing taproot causes misshapen roots.

Wait until mid-spring when soil is about 12°C. February is usually too cold for dependable germination except in very mild locations. March, April and early-May sowings generally establish better. Covering the seedbed with cloches for about two weeks beforehand helps warm and dry it.

Make drills 1cm deep and water the base if soil is dry. Scatter fresh seed thinly, or sow three seeds at stations 15cm apart. Parsnip germination is unreliable, so sow more than the final number required. Cover lightly and water again if rain is not expected. Space rows 30cm apart.

Seedlings may take 14–30 days to appear. Keep the drill moist and weed carefully while waiting so emerging parsnips are not confused with weed seedlings. Cloches or biodegradable fleece over young rows for a few weeks can improve establishment.

Once seedlings are identifiable, thin to one strong plant every 15cm. Remove the weaker plants without disturbing those retained. A fast radish row can be sown between parsnips and harvested before the slow roots need the room.

Water young plants during dry spells until established. Mature parsnips tolerate some drought, but erratic moisture can split roots, so keep soil reasonably even during prolonged dry weather. A thick organic mulch applied after the soil is warm and damp helps retain moisture and suppress weeds without disturbing roots.

Weed regularly while plants are small. Hand-weeding close to the row is safer than hoeing, which may damage the root crown and create an entry point for canker. Avoid crushing or handling foliage unnecessarily because its scent may attract carrot fly. Once leaves form a dense canopy, they suppress many later weeds.

Protect crops from carrot fly from the start with fine insect-proof mesh. Secure the edges carefully and leave enough height for the foliage. Rotation alone is unreliable against a mobile adult fly, although separating susceptible crops remains useful.

Parsnip foliage contains sap that can make skin sensitive to sunlight. Wear gloves and cover arms when handling plants, particularly in bright weather, then wash exposed skin.

Roots can be lifted when foliage begins to die down in late summer or autumn, but waiting until after the first heavy frost improves sweetness and flavour. Mark rows with canes before leaves disappear so roots remain easy to locate in winter.

Use a garden fork well to one side of the crown and ease the long root out intact. Avoid levering directly against it. Damaged roots should be used promptly rather than stored.

Parsnips are very hardy and can remain in the ground through winter for harvesting as required. Frozen soil can make lifting difficult, so take a reserve batch in November or cover part of the row with straw for insulation. Leaving sound roots in soil avoids the need for indoor storage and maintains quality.

Brush soil from freshly lifted roots and wash only before cooking. Trim foliage without cutting deeply into the crown. Roots lifted for a short reserve can be held somewhere cool, but the ground is normally the best store.

Roast, mash or add parsnips to soups and winter stews. Their central core may become firmer in very large roots, while small and medium specimens often cook most evenly. Frost-converted sugars give late harvests their characteristic sweetness.

Poor germination is usually caused by old seed or cold soil. Buy fresh seed annually, delay sowing until about 12°C and keep drills moist. Forked roots result from stones, compaction, recent manure or transplanting. Splitting follows uneven water supply. Orange-brown canker develops most readily on damaged roots, so choose resistant cultivars and avoid injury.

Common problems