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Pak Choi

This Allotment Pro editorial draft summarises the cited RHS guide. Check the source and adjust cultivation decisions for local conditions.
RHS source guide
Pak choi crop illustration

Month by month

Sow

  1. Sow indoors:

    from spring, and again in late summer for protected autumn crops

  2. Sow outdoors:

    from late spring once frost risk has passed; continue small sowings through summer for baby leaves

Plant

  1. Plant out:

    from late spring when plants are at least 10cm tall

Harvest

  1. Harvest:

    early summer to autumn, extending later beneath cloches or in a greenhouse

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1 - Getting Started

Pak choi, also called bok choy, is a fast-growing oriental brassica that forms a tight upright rosette. Mature plants reach about 30–45cm tall and carry broad white or pale-green succulent stems beneath large green, lime or purple leaves. The crisp stalks and leaves are best lightly steamed, sautéed or stir-fried, while young foliage makes a tender salad crop.

It can be harvested as cut-and-come-again baby leaves in as little as four weeks, or grown for semi-mature and full heads over eight to ten weeks. Pak choi prefers the mild, damp conditions of spring and late summer into autumn. Heat, drought and cold checks can all trigger premature flowering, so sow small batches often and avoid relying on one midsummer crop.

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2 - Choosing What To Grow

Choose compact varieties for containers, bolt-resistant selections for summer heads, and coloured forms for decorative leaves. Most types can supply both baby leaves and mature rosettes.

Recommended varieties

Pak choi Summer Breeze illustration

Pak choi ‘Summer Breeze’ AGM

Bolt-resistant with good tolerance of heat and cold. Harvest as salad leaves or allow it to form succulent stalks and young summer heads.

Pak choi Red Choi illustration

Pak choi ‘Red Choi’ AGM

An eye-catching cultivar with purple-red upper leaf surfaces, green undersides and bright-green stems. It is decorative as well as edible. ## 3 - Preparing The Ground Choose fertile soil that holds moisture without becoming waterlogged. Dig in about two bucketfuls of garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre. Remove weeds, rake the surface to a fine texture and take out large stones. In a no-dig bed, apply organic matter as a surface mulch and sow or plant through it. Use full sun for early and late crops. For summer sowings, a cooler position with light shade reduces heat stress and slows bolting. Avoid sites where brassicas have grown recently if persistent soil-borne problems are present. ## 4 - Sowing Seeds germinate in about a week. Sow small batches every few weeks rather than a large single row, matching spacing to the intended harvest.

3

3 - Preparing The Ground

Choose fertile soil that holds moisture without becoming waterlogged. Dig in about two bucketfuls of garden compost or well-rotted manure per square metre. Remove weeds, rake the surface to a fine texture and take out large stones. In a no-dig bed, apply organic matter as a surface mulch and sow or plant through it.

Use full sun for early and late crops. For summer sowings, a cooler position with light shade reduces heat stress and slows bolting. Avoid sites where brassicas have grown recently if persistent soil-borne problems are present.

4

4 - Sowing

Seeds germinate in about a week. Sow small batches every few weeks rather than a large single row, matching spacing to the intended harvest.

Sowing indoors

From spring, fill modules with moist peat-free seed compost and sow one or two seeds in each cell. Thin to the strongest seedling if both emerge. Modules minimise root disturbance, which can check growth and encourage flowering. A late-summer indoor sowing can be planted in a greenhouse in early autumn for protected leaves.

Sowing outdoors

Sow outside from late spring after frost risk has passed. Make drills 2cm deep with rows at least 30cm apart. Protect early and late sowings with cloches or biodegradable fleece during cold spells, and guard damp seedbeds from slugs and snails.

Thin gradually, eating sound thinnings. Leave 8–10cm between plants for baby leaves, 20cm for semi-mature heads and 25–30cm for full rosettes. Summer seed can still provide young leaves, especially in cooler districts or light shade.

Containers

Use pots at least 30cm wide because smaller containers dry too quickly. Fill with peat-free multi-purpose compost and position in sun during cool weather or light shade in summer. Growing bags also suit repeated baby-leaf sowings.

5

5 - Planting

Harden module-grown or purchased plug plants carefully, then plant outdoors from late spring once they are at least 10cm tall. Move the intact root ball without teasing roots apart. A check at transplanting may promote bolting.

Plant about 8cm apart for baby leaves, 20cm for intermediate heads and up to 30cm for mature plants. Water immediately. Small rosettes can also be planted into a 30cm pot or growing bag filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost.

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6 - Plant Care

Maintain steady moisture, especially while plants are young and in containers. Water in dry weather, ideally in the morning so plants grow through the day and the soil surface is less attractive to slugs overnight. Avoid midday watering in heat, when much of it evaporates.

For crops intended to mature, spread a thick layer of garden compost over damp soil. This holds moisture and suppresses weeds. Mulching is rarely practical for short-lived cut-and-come-again rows. Weed regularly so shallow roots do not compete for water, light or nutrients.

In summer, keep soil moist and use light shade. If a flower stem appears, remove and eat it before the buds open, then harvest the rest of the plant promptly. Other plants from the same sowing are likely to follow, so do not wait for full size.

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7 - Harvesting

Baby salad leaves may be ready in about 30 days. Snip a few outside leaves from each plant and leave the centre intact for repeated pickings until flowering starts.

Semi-mature and full-sized heads take about 45–75 days. Harvest while rosettes remain compact and firm, cutting through the base with a sharp knife. Light cooking preserves the succulent crunch of the stems and fresh flavour of the foliage.

Harvest normally runs from early summer into autumn. Cloches and an unheated greenhouse can extend late pickings, while repeated small sowings prevent gaps when individual batches bolt or are eaten by pests.

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8 - Problem Solving

Pak choi's soft juicy growth attracts slugs, snails and brassica-feeding insects. Fine insect-proof mesh protects foliage from flea beetles and caterpillars, while secure wildlife-safe netting prevents pigeon damage. Rotate brassicas and keep beds weed-free.

Common problems

Bolting in vegetables

Heat, drought, cold shocks and changing day length can trigger premature flowering. Maintain moisture, use summer shade and choose resistant varieties.

Problem source

Cabbage caterpillars

Larvae chew large holes and may strip leaves. Inspect undersides and cover crops with fine mesh before eggs are laid.

Problem source

Flea beetles

Tiny beetles pepper leaves with small holes. Damage is often cosmetic on mature plants but checks seedlings, so protect early with insect-proof mesh.

Problem source

Pigeons

Pigeons tear brassica leaves and may leave only stalks and major veins. Support secure wildlife-safe netting above the crop.

Problem source

Slugs and snails

These animals eat seedlings and fleshy leaves, particularly in damp weather. Reduce hiding places, inspect after dark and protect young sowings. Source: Royal Horticultural Society. Reviewed for crop identity and base image, five exact cultivar source hrefs, five linked common problems, 30–45cm mature height, four-week baby leaves, eight-to-ten-week heads, two bucketfuls of organic matter per square metre, one-week germination, one-to-two seeds per module, 2cm drills, 30cm rows and containers, three harvest spacings, 10cm transplant size, and 30-day or 45–75-day harvests.

Problem source