Allotment ProYour allotment, organised

Private by default. No third-party analytics.

Chicory

This Allotment Pro editorial draft summarises the cited RHS guide. Check the source and adjust timings for local conditions.
RHS source guide
Chicory crop illustration

Month by month

Sow

  1. April–JulyIndoors or outdoors

    Sow — Start non-forcing types indoors in April and May, sow forcing chicory outside in May and June, and non-forcing heads outside in June and July

Plant out

  1. Late May–early June onwardsOutdoors

    Transplant — Harden off strong plants and wait until cold conditions have passed to reduce bolting

Harvest

  1. Early summer–early springOutdoors or under cover

    Pick — Take baby leaves from early summer, whole heads from late summer to mid-autumn, and forced chicons through winter and early spring

1

1 - Getting Started

Chicory is a fast-growing salad crop valued for its distinctive bitter, tangy leaves. Three culinary types offer very different harvests. Forcing or Belgian chicory is lifted and grown in darkness during winter to produce pale crisp heads called chicons. Radicchio forms rounded heads of deep-red leaves with white veins. Sugarloaf chicory makes tall, crisp green heads resembling Cos lettuce and has a naturally sweeter flavour.

Radicchio and sugarloaf types are self-blanching: their outer leaves shade the tender heart and reduce its bitterness. Both can also be sown closely for cut-and-come-again baby leaves. Regular small sowings, with greenhouse protection in cold months, can provide salad leaves for much of the year.

Choosing a type

Grow forcing chicory if you can store roots and provide a dark 10–15°C (50–59°F) space in winter. Choose radicchio for compact red heads and a flavour that mellows when roasted or grilled. Choose sugarloaf for larger upright heads and the mildest taste. Ornamental *Cichorium intybus* with blue flowers is related but is not the main culinary crop described here.

2

2 - Choosing What To Grow

Varieties differ in leaf colour, head shape, bitterness and whether they require forcing. RHS Award of Garden Merit cultivars have performed reliably in trials. Seed is widely available, while young plants may be sold in late spring.

Recommended varieties

3

3 - Preparing The Ground

Choose an open sunny site, although light summer shade is tolerated and allows chicory to fit between taller crops. Remove weeds and incorporate plenty of garden compost or well-rotted manure several weeks before sowing or planting so disturbed ground can settle. In a no-dig system, spread organic matter as a surface mulch and sow or plant through it.

Chicory also grows in containers at least 30cm (1ft) wide, filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost. Ensure good drainage and place pots where daily summer watering is practical.

Planning space

Forcing plants need 15cm (6in) between crowns, while non-forcing radicchio and sugarloaf heads need 30cm (1ft). A baby-leaf crop may be only 5cm (2in) apart. Keep these different end uses in mind before preparing rows.

4

4 - Sowing

Do not sow outdoors too early, because a cold spell can trigger bolting. Sow forcing chicory outdoors in May and June. Sow non-forcing cultivars indoors in April and May or outdoors in June and July. For baby leaves, sow non-forcing types through spring and summer; use a greenhouse in late winter for early leaves or in late summer and early autumn for winter harvests.

Sowing indoors

Sow into pots, trays or modules of moist peat-free seed compost and keep them warm and bright on a windowsill or in a heated propagator. Seedlings should appear within a few days. Indoor sowing gives an early start and protects small plants from slugs and snails.

Once seedlings carry several leaves, move them carefully into individual modules or pots. Grow them on strongly, then harden them off before planting outside when weather is reliably warm.

Sowing outdoors

Sow thinly 1cm (½in) deep in rows 30cm (12in) apart. Protect seedlings from slugs and snails. Thin forcing cultivars to 15cm (6in), non-forcing heads to 30cm (1ft), or baby-leaf plants to 5cm (2in). Use the same final spacing for seed sown in large containers.

5

5 - Planting

Plant indoor-raised or bought chicory outside from late May or early June, depending on weather. Delay if conditions remain cold because chilling can cause premature flowering. Harden plants off thoroughly, water before lifting, set them into prepared ground and water again.

Space forcing types 15cm (6in) apart, non-forcing radicchio and sugarloaf plants 30cm (1ft) apart, and baby-leaf plants 5cm (2in) apart. Protect transplants from slugs and snails, especially during damp weather.

Winter baby leaves

For cut-and-come-again winter salads, sow non-forcing chicory in late summer and plant it in a greenhouse border or large container in autumn. Maintain airflow and harvest lightly so crowns retain enough foliage to regrow.

6

6 - Plant Care

Chicory is low maintenance but needs reliable summer moisture. Water thoroughly in dry spells because drought promotes bolting and intensifies bitterness. Apply a thick mulch of garden compost or well-rotted manure once plants are established to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Ground-grown plants rarely need feeding. Give container crops a general-purpose liquid feed every two weeks through summer.

Forcing chicory

Lift forcing plants in November and discard crowns narrower than 2.5cm (1in). Cut leaves back to 2.5cm above the crown and store roots horizontally in sand in a cool shed. Force a few at a time by planting them upright in moist peat-free multi-purpose compost with crowns exposed; about five roots fit a 25cm (10in) pot.

Cover the pot completely with black polythene, an upturned bucket or a lightproof pot, and hold it at 10–15°C (50–59°F). Pale yellow chicons form in darkness. Cut them at the base when 15cm (6in) tall. Re-covering the stump may yield a second smaller head.

Blanching non-forcing heads

Radicchio and sugarloaf usually self-blanch, but tying outer leaves loosely together or covering a nearly mature head with a bucket helps exclude light. Blanching takes about two weeks and longer in cool autumn weather. Check frequently for slugs, snails or rot.

7

7 - Harvesting And Storing

Harvest whole non-forcing heads from late summer to mid-autumn and forced chicons through winter and early spring. Baby leaves are ready one or two months after sowing and can be cut repeatedly. Regular sowings extend this quick crop across most of the year.

Forced chicons

Chicons take about four weeks at forcing temperature and are ready at 15cm (6in). Their pale crisp leaves have a bitter-sweet flavour and can be eaten raw, roasted or grilled. Keep them away from light after cutting or they will green and become more bitter.

Radicchio and sugarloaf

Cut lettuce-like heads before the first frost or protect them with cloches or plastic-free fleece. Leave the stump and it may produce a second smaller head. Discard tough outer leaves and use the self-blanched heart. Radicchio develops richer red colour as days shorten and temperatures fall; sugarloaf remains greener and naturally sweeter.

8

8 - Problem Solving

Protect seedlings and covered heads from slugs and snails, and inspect forcing pots for rot. Cold after early sowing or hot dry weather later can trigger bolting, so sow at the correct time and maintain moisture. Bolted plants stop producing useful leaves, although their blue flowers attract insects and plants may self-seed.

Common problems

Bolting in vegetables

Cold spells, heat, drought and changing day length can prompt premature flowering. Avoid early outdoor sowing and water consistently.

Problem source

Aphids

Sap-sucking colonies can distort young leaves and reduce vigour. Encourage natural predators and inspect tightly folded heads.

Problem source

Grey mould

Soft decay with fuzzy grey growth is encouraged by damp, damaged or crowded foliage. Improve airflow and remove affected material.

Problem source

Powdery mildews

White dusty fungal growth is more likely on stressed plants. Maintain watering and remove badly affected leaves.

Problem source

Slugs and snails

These molluscs damage seedlings and hide beneath forcing or blanching covers. Inspect regularly and reduce nearby hiding places.

Problem source