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Chard

This Allotment Pro editorial draft summarises the cited RHS guide. Check the source and adjust timings for local conditions.
RHS source guide
Chard crop illustration

Month by month

Sow

  1. March–AugustIndoors or outdoors · Sow

    Start early plants under cover, sow main crops outdoors from April to July, or make small repeat sowings for baby leaves

Plant out

  1. Spring–summerOutdoors · Transplant

    Harden off module-grown plants and set them out once they are well rooted and at least 5cm (2in) tall

Harvest

  1. Most of the yearOutdoors · Pick

    Spring and midsummer sowings provide repeated leaves from summer into autumn and again the following spring

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1 - Getting Started

Chard is an easy, productive leafy crop closely related to beetroot. It is also called Swiss chard, perpetual spinach or leaf beet. Its broad leaves and thick, colourful stalks make it ornamental enough for a flower border, yet one sowing can provide many cut-and-come-again harvests. Young leaves are tender enough for salads, while mature foliage can be cooked like spinach. The crisp stems are edible too and take slightly longer to cook.

Sow outdoors in spring or early summer for leaves through summer and autumn. A second sowing in midsummer can remain outside over winter and restart early the following spring. For baby salad leaves, sow smaller batches every few weeks and harvest them young. This flexible schedule makes chard useful both as a full-sized allotment crop and as a quick container-grown salad.

Is chard suitable for your plot?

Chard tolerates a wide range of conditions and established plants cope reasonably well with drought, but the best leaves come from rich soil that stays evenly moist. Full sun is ideal, with light shade helpful during summer. Plants grown for mature leaves need generous spacing, while baby-leaf crops fit into smaller areas. Chard is hardy and can overwinter without protection, although cold weather pauses new growth.

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2 - Choosing What To Grow

Chard varieties differ more in appearance than flavour. Their thick stalks, midribs and veins may be ruby, crimson, pink, orange, yellow or white, and green leaves are sometimes flushed or veined with red. White-stemmed cultivars tend to be the hardiest and most productive, which makes them valuable in colder districts. Coloured mixtures bring an especially decorative effect. RHS Award of Garden Merit cultivars have performed reliably in trials.

Recommended varieties

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3 - Preparing The Ground

Choose a sunny bed, or one with light summer shade, and prepare soil that is rich, moisture-retentive and free draining. Remove weeds thoroughly, then fork in plenty of well-rotted garden compost. Organic matter improves fertility and helps maintain the steady supply of moisture needed for lush, tender leaves without leaving roots waterlogged.

In a no-dig system, spread compost as a surface mulch and sow or plant through it. Mature chard forms a broad rosette, so keep enough open ground for final spacings of 30cm (1ft) between plants and 45cm (18in) between rows. Clear perennial weeds before sowing, as removing them later among established crowns is more difficult.

Preparing containers

Use a container at least 40cm (16in) wide and deep for full-sized plants and fill it with peat-free multi-purpose compost. Check that drainage holes remain open. Containers dry faster than beds, so position them where regular watering is practical. Several closely spaced seedlings may be kept only when the intention is to harvest them as baby leaves.

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4 - Sowing

Chard seed is large and straightforward to handle. Sow indoors from early spring for an earlier start, or outdoors from April through July for full-sized plants. A spring sowing crops through summer, while one made in July overwinters and resumes in spring. For frequent baby-leaf pickings, sow small batches from March to August every few weeks.

Sowing indoors

Fill modular trays with peat-free seed compost and place one or two seeds in each cell. Cover with 2.5cm (1in) of compost and water well. Thin to the stronger seedling if both emerge. Indoor sowing gives more reliable germination and keeps vulnerable seedlings away from slugs and snails.

Keep plants in bright conditions and water so the compost remains moist but not saturated. They are ready to move outdoors when well rooted and at least 5cm (2in) tall. Harden them off gradually before planting so tender growth adjusts to outdoor temperatures, wind and direct sunlight.

Sowing outdoors

Make a drill 2.5cm (1in) deep in prepared soil, water along its base, then place seeds 10cm (4in) apart. Cover them with soil and water again if conditions are dry. Space additional rows 45cm (18in) apart. Gradually thin seedlings to 30cm (1ft) apart for mature plants or 5cm (2in) apart for mini-leaves.

Two main sowings, in April and July, are usually enough for a long harvest season. Protect emerging seedlings from slugs and snails, particularly in damp weather. In containers, use the same 2.5cm (1in) sowing depth and 10cm (4in) initial spacing, then thin according to the intended harvest size.

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5 - Planting

Plant home-raised or bought module plants outside once they are at least 5cm (2in) tall. Harden them off first, choose a sunny or lightly shaded position and water the modules before transplanting. Remove each plant gently so its root ball remains intact.

Set full-sized chard 30cm (1ft) apart. For cut-and-come-again baby salad leaves, plants can be only 5cm (2in) apart because they will be harvested before developing broad crowns. Water immediately after planting and protect young plants from slugs and snails while they establish.

Planting in containers

Use a pot at least 40cm (16in) wide and deep, filled with peat-free multi-purpose compost. Apply the same spacing as in open ground and avoid overcrowding mature plants. Container compost has a limited water reserve, so check it often and keep young transplants evenly moist.

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6 - Plant Care

Established chard is robust and usually needs little maintenance beyond watering and weeding. Water young plants regularly until their roots are established. Older plants tolerate some drought, but prolonged dryness reduces leaf quality and yield, so soak the ground during long dry spells. Containers need more frequent watering throughout the growing season.

Mulching, feeding and weeding

Once plants are growing strongly, apply a thick mulch of garden compost to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Leave a clear gap around each crown so damp material does not encourage stem rot. Mulching is unnecessary for a closely sown baby-leaf crop that will be cleared quickly.

Chard generally needs no additional feed when grown in prepared soil or fresh potting compost. Weed regularly, especially while plants are young, to prevent competition for light, water and nutrients. Dense weeds also shelter slugs and reduce air movement, increasing the risk of fungal disease.

Bolting and winter protection

Hot weather can prompt chard to bolt. Remove emerging flower stems promptly and the plant may continue producing useful leaves for a while, although established flowering eventually ends productive cropping. Chard survives winter outdoors without protection but stops making new leaves in cold conditions. Cloches can encourage a few pickings during mild spells and help growth restart earlier in spring. Container plants may be moved into a greenhouse for light winter harvests.

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7 - Harvesting And Storing

Begin picking once plants carry enough leaves to recover strongly. A spring sowing followed by another in midsummer can supply chard for most of the year. Mature leaves reach at least 30cm (1ft), and regular harvesting stimulates replacements from the centre of the crown.

For a continuous light harvest, cut a few outer leaves cleanly at the base of their stalks with scissors or secateurs and leave several central leaves untouched. Pick again after new growth develops. Alternatively, an established plant at least 20cm (8in) tall can be cut more heavily. Leave stalk bases at least 5cm (2in) high so the sturdy crown can resprout, and allow longer before the next harvest.

Using the crop

Pick baby leaves when they are up to about 5cm (2in) long for salads. Steam larger leaves, or add them to stir-fries, pasta sauces and stews; like spinach, they shrink considerably during cooking. Thick stalks have a crunchy, celery-like texture and can be eaten raw or lightly steamed separately because they cook more slowly than the leaves.

Chard is best harvested fresh rather than stored for long periods. Keep cut leaves cool and use them promptly. Leaving the active crown in the ground is the most reliable way to hold the crop, as it can produce repeated fresh pickings over several months.

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8 - Problem Solving

Once established, chard is normally dependable. Protect seedlings from slugs, snails and birds. Leaf miners may leave unsightly blotches, while damp weather, poor airflow or overcrowding encourages fungal disease. Remove badly affected leaves, maintain the recommended spacing and keep weeds under control.

Common problems

Beet leaf miner

Larvae tunnel within chard leaves and create irregular pale blotches that later turn brown. Remove mined leaves, crush larvae within fresh mines, or use insect-proof netting with crop rotation to prevent adult flies reaching the foliage.

Problem source

Downy mildews

These diseases discolour and damage foliage, especially in damp, crowded conditions. Space plants for good air movement, avoid unnecessarily wetting leaves and remove badly affected material.

Problem source

Grey mould

Soft decay and fuzzy grey fungal growth may develop where foliage stays damp or damaged. Remove affected tissue, improve ventilation and avoid leaving dead leaves around the crown.

Problem source

Slugs and snails

These molluscs are most damaging to seedlings and young transplants in damp weather. Reduce hiding places, inspect plants regularly and protect vulnerable new growth while it establishes.

Problem source